Hey, it's a new economy and we are all looking for foods that are both inexpensive and go a long way, right? We used polenta three times recently and still have plenty of it left over. The creamy, sweet concoction can be used in so many different ways. You make your own or buy the little tubes you see in the cheese section at your favorite grocer and get to work on your own creativity. Here are a few of the ways we served it.
Steak, polenta with hot and spicy garlic oil and steamed asparagus.
Very simple here. We just cut up some of the polenta, baked it in the oven a bit to warm it up and drizzled it with a fantastic hot and spicy garlic oil from the pantry. The oil added just the right touch of flavor and heat.
Caramelized scallops with polenta coins.
The texture of crisped bacon, the bite of asiago cheese and the color of the green peas was a great accompaniment for the fresh scallops, caramelized to perfection. You can use an apple corer or a cordial glass to cut the polenta into the small coin shapes.
Polenta coins with crisped bacon, asiago cheese and fresh peas.
Grilled chicken with pesto and polenta salad.
We mixed the polenta pieces with quartered grape tomato and drizzled with warm pesto sauce, topped with finely grated pecorino romano.
Polenta, grape tomato, pesto and grated pecorino romano.
Monsieur Franck Tombarel, winner of the 2009 Grand Prix de la Baguette, Paris
It's become a tradition with TBF to celebrate with our friends in the City Of Light, as well as fellow travellers, this annual event. The City of Paris has organized the Grand Prix de la Baguette de la ville de Paris for many years now. The distinguished panel of judges must follow a set of strict submission rules and judging criteria. This year, after much deliberation, the 2009 winner is Monsieur Franck Tombarel, who can now proudly claim that his baguette is officially the best in Paris.
Quel arrondissement?
Monsieur Tombarel represents the bakers' "Le Grenier de Félix", located in the 15th arrondisement at 64 avenue Félix Faure, 75015 Paris. The award will be presented in May 2009 on the occasion of the Feast of Bread. Congratulations Monsieur Tombarel!
Slow food is the opposite of fast food in all ways. Personally, I have widened that horizon to include everything that I call "manufactured food." And Alice Waters is a champion of the movement. Lots of people have been asking me if I happened to catch the 60 Minutes interview she did last week and the answer is: yes. I agree with everything she says.
Leader of the Slow Food movement, Alice Waters
The movement is clearly growing despite, or maybe because of, the bad economy. This year many people across the country will be turning to their own backyards as a food source in the same way so many Americans turned to their "Victory Gardens" during WWII by planting a vegetable garden. Let's face it, most of the stuff you buy at the supermarket is garbage. They have the nerve to bill it as fresh produce when it has been sitting in a truck or container for two weeks or more en route to the store. Because of this it has to be treated with tons of chemicals so it won't go bad.
Cattle is routinely injected with steroids to bulk them up and antibiotics to keep them healthy and we are ingesting it all. Chickens and other fowl are trapped in pens about the size of a one gallon milk container, deprived of any exercise, natural light or interaction with other birds. If you haven't had free range chicken lately go ahead and indulge. Chances are you will find it amazingly like "what chicken used to taste like." That is to say much better, more flavorful, less sinewy and tough.
It seems no wonder at all that local outdoor markets are thriving in cities and towns all across America. On my first trip to Europe this was one of the first things that struck me. The local markets were mobbed with people after work looking over the fresh produce and meats or cheeses they would use for dinner that night. No pallet sized boxes of frozen chicken tenders and other processed foods from Costco for these people. The whole approach to food was different. The very freshest local foods prepared simply with lots of fruits and vegetables served at every meal. I also noticed that they ate much smaller portions, favoring less quantity and more quality of flavor. Needless to say, I also noticed how most people were slim and fit.
It was announced this week that Michelle Obama has directed the very first vegetable garden to be planted on the White House grounds this year. Congratulations Alice Waters for having your wish finally come true! It's about time.
We caught up with Blair Baldwin, the creator of Cookum.com, this week to talk about the launch of his new site for local connections. The social networking website is all about matching up foodies and home chefs. From freshly baked cookies to fully prepared meals, Cookum helps find that special item just like grandma used to make, even if grandma isn't around anymore. With restaurant dining clearly in decline we think it just might be the next wave of the new economy. You can get the same high quality fare ... you just pick it up at your neighbor's house for a fraction of the cost of dining out. It's sort of like Etsy for foodies, all done at the neighborhood level.
New economies bring new opportunities and we think this one is going to be a hit as more people turn to local food. In beta testing now in the Boston area, the transaction numbers have been growing and plans are to eventually roll it out across the country. The site will also include ratings and reviews and a forum to network with other food lovers in your area. Great idea Blair!
This post has been a long time in the making only because we have been testing different versions to perfect this pastry for our readers. We haven't officially named the creation yet but everyone who tastes it seems to mention that it reminds them of a pop tart. Of course this would be a very high end pop tart made with only the best quality, fresh ingredients. As usual, you can click on any of the pictures to enlarge.
The "Better Than Pop Tart" is the perfect breakfast pastry or after dinner snack.
It is not difficult to make and we've made it so many times now that we can offer you all the tips you need to make it perfectly the very first time. We've shared it with several friends and family and, so far, no one who has tasted the final version has been able to suggest any way to improve upon it.
We've been busy in the kitchen!
The pastry starts with a classic shortbread crumble crust. A layer of jam is then added. You can use any kind at all. We've had great luck with all kinds, including a homemade pomegranate jam made by a friend. So whatever flavor you like best, use that. We experimented with several frostings and found the best to be a sugar cookie icing. It dries to a shiny, hard consistency which is what seems to make it reminiscent of that favorite childhood breakfast treat.
The simple dough ingredients.
Use quality ingredients to make all the difference in the world. European butter such as Plugra or Kerry Gold would be a good choice. Fresh eggs are a must and the very best quality vanilla extract. NO imitation anything. Here's the recipe for the shortbread crumble:
Set oven to 350.
Ingredients: 1/2 cup sugar 1 1/2 cup flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 egg 1/2 cup butter (1 stick) 1 teaspoon vanilla 12 ounce jar fruit preserves
Directions: Combine the sugar, flour, salt, egg, butter and vanilla. Crumble with fingers. Take half the dough and spread into a square 8x8 pan (ungreased). Spread in well. Spread jam on top. Top with the remaining dough. Bake for 25-30 minutes. When edges start to brown remove. Cool completely, at least two hours.
The hand-mixed crumble dough.
There is no need to grease the pan at all. The whole pastry will be very easy to remove in one piece. Don't feel as though you need to use that whole jar of preserves. We found the best versions used just enough to cover the bottom crust, maybe about 10 ounces.
Press the crumble dough firmly into the baking pan.
Do make sure the bottom crust covers the pan completely and is pressed in well. We found that leaving a small lip of crust at the edges actually held the preserves in well.
Don't panic if the top layer doesn't cover the entire pan.
The top layer does not need to cover completely. It's good if it does but don't panic if not. We found it helps to flatten the top layer on a marble slab or counter top, scoop it up with a scraper and place it on top. Do it in small pieces and fit them together like a puzzle.
You'll know it's done when the edges are bubbly and caramelized.
Julia Child used to time her cooking not always with a timer but with her nose. You will find that you can literally smell when this pastry is done cooking. If you have no olfactory senses check it at 25 minutes. The jam around the edges should be just golden brown and slightly bubbling. We found it took a bit closer to 30 minutes but all ovens are different.
The royal icing version of the pastry.
We started making the first version with royal icing and apricot jam. The taste was fantastic but we were not pleased with the look of the frosting. It dries hard and melts in your mouth but it looked too clumpy.
The raspberry pop tart version.
The best version we made used a sugar cookie icing. It dries smooth, glossy and hard just like a pop tart. You could even add a dot of food coloring to make it fun for the kids. We did try using green tea in one version but did not like the brownish color it gave.
Here is the icing recipe: 1 cup confectioners' sugar 2 teaspoons milk 2 teaspoons light corn syrup 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
Directions: In a small bowl stir together the sugar and milk and mix until smooth. Beat in the corn syrup and extract until glossy. If icing is too thick add more corn syrup.
Our experience was that the recipe needed more milk although this IS the standard recipe. So, add a little milk in small increments until the mixture is smooth. Then, add the corn syrup. The corn syrup is what sets the hardness of the icing. Let the icing dry completely. We found one hour to be perfect. When cutting make sure you use a serrated knife and saw into the pastry slowly for a clean cut. Rinse and wipe down the knife after each cut as the jam will stick to it and the bars look the very best when cut cleanly.
The sugar cookie icing version.
The recipe is fool proof delicious and sure to make your reputation as an expert cook. Just let me know what you'd suggest as a name!
For the obsessive/compulzive pastry chefs (and who isn't) here are a few more pics and pointers. Visual learning is good.
We did use a silicone pan for the first time in this process and found it worked well.
Turn the pastry out of the pan by covering the top of the pan with waxed paper or tin foil and flipping it over once. It falls right out in one piece.
Use a platic scraper to loosen the edges along the sides of the pan before turning out. We found some jams stuck just a bit to the sides.
Always sift confectioners'sugar for a smoother consistency.
Always use a serrated knife to cut this pastry. God I hate the look of this version!
The final result will be buttery and dripping with jam so serve with napkins!
So what do surfer dudes and fine pastry have in common? Read on.
Surfing in Ogunquit.
As many of you know I spent every summer of my life at my family's second home on the southern coast of Maine. When I was a teenager I went looking for a job and found one at the village bakery. Bernard's Bakery on Shore Road was both commercial and retail. Every night thousands of the snowflake rolls we made were consumed in the local restaurants by vacationing diners. The establishment also provided cakes, doughnuts, muffins and fine pastries to travellers and visitors in the front shop.
What was interesting is that the place was almost entirely staffed by boys. It was particularly popular with surfers who flocked to Ogunquit every summer then migrated south with the birds. It was the only job in town where, although you started early, you could be guaranteed to be on the beach by noon every day. At Bernard's you could collect a weekly pay, get in six hours of solid surfing and, if you worked there, even get a discount at the boarding house above the bakery. It was more than a sweet deal.
The sun, the sand, the waves of Ogunquit.
Boys being boys, the kitchen was a very competitive environment. If you were tending the oven and pulled a sheet of rolls anything beyond that perfect shade of golden brown you'd be asked: "How many more of those are you gonna wreck?" If you mixed and cut a batch of biscuits in forty minutes there would always be: "Wow that took so long. I do that in twenty."
These guys were diehard surfers moonlighting by making pastry. When a revival of the film THE ENDLESS SUMMER played at the local movie house they sat through all six performances. Their enthusiasm was so infectious I even joined them for one. On the last night the manager let them in for free, no easy invite from a Yankee businessman.
The place was run by Bruce Bernard and his father, Alvah. Everyone had a specialty. I was the king of eccles cakes. Alvah (as in Thomas Alvah Edison) was an impressive whistler. He would arrive in the morning whistling a pop song, move on to a few burlesque numbers and even regale us with opera, all with an amazing musical alacrity. His gift was both envied and emulated by the guys.
The surfer's life.
We were also allowed to eat all we wanted while on the job. To say we were human vacuum cleaners would not be far off the mark. So many jelly doughnuts were never consumed by people who miraculously never gained an ounce of weight. I have no doubt that the whistling strategy was deployed to keep them from going broke. Try whistling with your mouth full!
Afternoons and early evenings were spent longboarding in icy Atlantic waters, followed by nights of chasing girls, swilling cheap beer and tokin joints. Yet, every morning at 4:30 AM they would always show up to spend their days fussing over how to make their cupcakes shine better than yours. "I think we need a little Frosting 101 over here, man. That cake looks, like ... so imperfect."
Ogunquit Beach in full force.
The whole point of this is that a bunch of frazzle-haired, naturally bronzed, people who you would never expect to care were the best friggin work team I ever had in all my travels, expense accounts or big, fancy office jobs. A good day was quality blueberries and a new bar of wax. The screen door closed behind you, the smell of fresh bread baking wafted down the driveway as you left for the sand and sun every day. Like others would park a bike against a wall they lined up their boards. Passionate foodies all. Amazing, crazy foodies who taught me a lot.
Sadly, Bernard's Bakery closed the doors for good a few years back. You just can't get an eccles cake anymore. I have been unable to either locate or contact any members of the Bernard family.
"Dude cut that Napoleon with a serrated knife. Saw it back and forth. Don't chop it. And when it is all cut then put the raspberries on."
We owe a HUGE thanks to Aidan Brooks, who sorted out a major technological problem for TBF this past week. Seriously, without him I would have never started this blog, made so many foodie friends all over the world or shared my finds with other Bostonians. Now, if you could just get a decent haircut, mate, maybe someday you'll be famous (although that doesn't seem to be a prerequisite to get a celebrity Chef TV Show).
Here's a pint to you, Trig! And, yes, this video has nothing to do with food.
We are so happy to kick off Restaurant Week with the second installment of our Simple Interview series. In fact, our interviewee, Michael Wolfson of Da Vinci Ristorante has announced that the restaurant will be extending the prix fixe specials for an entire month, along with added extra values. Here is the Adam Pellerin report from our local Fox TV station.
What words, Michael, would you use to describe the style of your restaurant?
Beautiful ambiance, amazing Italian cuisine, upscale/friendly service, and reasonable prices.
What uniquely qualifies you to prepare and direct the cuisine at your restaurant?
I have managed some of the best restaurants in Boston over my career and feel that we have something very special at Da Vinci. Chef Peppino is solely responsible for our cuisine. His experience is second to none. He trained in Europe, worked with some very reputable Chefs during his career, and has a unique perspective on the restaurant business that I have never seen from a Chef. He genuinely cares about his guests and their satisfaction. My biggest struggle is matching the service in the restaurant with Chef Peppino's food. I am constantly reminding our service team.....our food is an A+. We must compliment that with A+ service. I have a terrific support team in my co-owners. Wioletta Zywina is the brains and heart of the operation. She is in charge of our bills, PR, advertising, ideas, etc. Chef Peppino is just the best. From his superb food to his enthusiasm for our guests, I could not be luckier to be part of such a dynamic team. Our office manager, Francine Viera worked closely with Wioletta and the rest of our team (kitchen and dining room staff) does a wonderful job each and every day.
Do you like to cook at home and, if so, what do you make?
I enjoy cooking, but my wife is a big fan of eating out, so that is what we normally end up doing for dinner. That gives me a great opportunity to see the competition and see fresh ideas that are constantly popping up in our business.
How has your restaurant responded to the “new economy”?
We opened Da Vinci back in November of 2007. A great number of our guests were regulars from La Campania in Waltham, where they remember Chef Peppino. We wanted to become strong addition to our neighborhood, which isn't easy, being that the South End is full of educated diners/foodies. We feel that we had to prove ourselves to our local guests, so we began offering a $29 three-course menu on Monday and Tuesday nights. I believe that we began this trend of upscale restaurants offering a prix-fixed, cost-friendly menu. It seems that numerous restaurants now offer this deal to their guests. We also give our guests $10 gift certificates to use during their next visit. During March, as well as being part of Restaurant Week, we give our guests homemade cookies that are accompanied by coupons to local boutiques, health club passes, gift certificates, etc. During April, we are putting together a promotion that each guest will be given a muffin that Chef Peppino made for them. The muffin will each have an added bonus, from coupons for a complimentary appetizer, a complimentary dessert, to a complimentary pasta sampler (one of our guest's favorite). There will also be $10 gift certificates and $25 gift certificates in some of the muffins. We want our guests to leave overly-satisfied with not only the food and the service, but with the value of the experience.
Tell us something that most people would be surprised to find out about you.
This could be a number of things......I enjoy old-school rap, and enjoy freestyling at the end of the evening, once the guests have left. I also love my family more than anything, which should not come as a surprise to people that know me, but with the hours of our business, it can become demanding to balance work and home. My wife is expecting our first child any day now, so we have been spending a lot of time training our Jack Russell terrier. Being supportive to my family and our team at Da Vinci is my priority each and every day, which does surprise some people. If you asked me ten-twelve years ago what my goals are, I would tell you that I want to open my own restaurant, hotel or B&B. You ask me this today and I would say that making the people around me better, both in their work and personal lives, is extremely important to me.
Da Vinci Ristorante 162 Columbus Avenue Boston, MA 02116 Telephone: (617) 350-0007
Additionally, I want to say that a popular Boston publication has just added a new series of interviews featuring, you guessed it, five questions for prominent local foodies. Of course our first Simple Interview ran weeks ago. You may remember that our post on Ferran Adria's visit to Boston beat TIME Magazine's coverage to online publication. Not that we are bragging but TBF is really excited that sometimes our readers get their information faster than in the purported big leagues. Thanks for reading.
What better to go with this ominous economy than a dark and foreboding, even frightening, interior restaurant design? That's what you get at the Ultra Supper Club in Toronto.
Interior view of Ultra Supper Club
Dinosaur sized roosters stare down at you from the walls as you dine. The black and red (mostly black) interior is dramatically lit and the furniture is sleek and modern. The cuisine is contemporary fusion with above par reviews.
Ultra Supper Club in Toronto
After the dinner hour the place becomes a very chic club having hosted the likes of Lyndsay Lohan, Becks, Hilary Duff and (to keep with the unusually scary theme) even Paris Hilton. Something just tells me that Depression Era, over the top, alcohol soaked partying is going to be back in style. Or is it just me?
Ultra Supper Club 314 Queen St West Toronto, ON M5V 2A2 Telephone: 416-263-0330 Website: www.ultratoronto.com
A Phantom Gourmet gift card we were given came into good use recently when we stopped in at Exchange Street Bistro in Malden. This place has a really great design with granite table tops, fine wood finished and muted colors of olive and red. Sounds strange but it works. There is, of course, a large bar area, several nice booths with very high walls for added privacy and a separate area behind the bar that would be perfect for larger groups or company get togethers (for those few companies that haven't cut the entertainment budget). In fact, it really did have that upscale let's all go for a drink and small bite after work type feel. Most of the lunchtime tables seemed to be occupied by business persons.
The menu, again as expected, offered hearty bistro fare. We were very tempted to go with the lobster mac and cheese but opted instead for the baked haddock.
Lunch at Exchange Street Bistro.
A generous portion of baked haddock was served over a mound of garlic and herb mashed potato and topped with steamed baby spinach leaves and finished with a creamy lobster sauce. The haddock was good but seemed to lack the succulent flavor of really fresh. Frozen maybe? The crust was well done, neither too much nor too little, and the seasoning not overpowering. The mashed potato was a bit thick and dry. We'd suggest just one more dollop of cream and a pat of butter. The sauce had just the slightest hint of lobster. It could definitely be amped up without overpowering the haddock flavor.
While we considered the meal good and the portion size generous, with just a few little tweaks it really could have made the excellent grade. Lunches are in the $9-15 range and dinners $20-30. A Sunday brunch menu is also served. Service was very good.
Exchange Street Bistro 67 Exchange Street Malden, MA 02148 Telephone: 781.322.0071 Click here for website.
It's a dark and feisty nest of foodie love set against a shining city. It's the best steak in town but the side of cornbread is, perhaps, even better. It's a no frills carnivore's paradise and a Boston institution. It's Durgin Park.
The Durgin Park Signage
When the server asks us if there will be anything else upon finishing a great meal I will often say, yes, I'd like that recipe. Half the time I get strange looks (the newbies) and the other half I get a resounding yes. Occasionally, I get invited back to the kitchen, complete with the logo T shirt or an apron as a gift. So, here is the recipe for Durgin Park's cornbread. It's not the heavy, mealy stuff you usually get at restaurants. It's a lighter, more cake like version. This is the original recipe as served at this Boston institution since long before any of us were born (1827).
Inside Durgin Park.
Durgin Park's Corn Bread
Ingredients: 3/4 cup sugar 2 eggs, beaten 2 cups flour 1 cup yellow cornmeal (regular, not coarse grind) 1 tablespoon baking powder 3/4 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon melted butter 1 1/2 cup milk
Instructions: Preheat oven to 375. Mix the sugar with the eggs. Shift the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt together. Stir in the egg mixture. Beat quickly by hand (do not use an electric mixer unless you want an even more cake like texture).
Bake in a 11x13 inch buttered pan for 35-40 minutes. Makes 21 squares.
For blueberry cake, add one cup of blueberries before turning the batter out into the pan.
For tea bread, substitute one cup of flour for the cornmeal.
Some things you get and never think about just last forever. My Mom had a ceramic box on the hallway table that we all placed our keys in the minute we walked through the door. She got it at the wedding from some Aunt I never met. It was nicely made. After years it was chipped but we always knew where the keys were.
So it is with the micro-steamer.
The absolutely retro Tupperware micro-steamer.
The bottom bowl takes a cup of water, the middle fresh veg. The middle bowl is basically a colander. I use this at least twice each week without a sign of wear. It turns out perfectly steamed veggies from the microwave every, single time.
It may not be the most artful presentation but it is as dependable as a best friend.
Steamed broccoli or asparagus, spinach or any vegetable and I've even cooked chicken and halibut in this. In fact it's perfect for poaching seafood.
One of the great things about this new economy, if there is any silver lining, is that if you've got the cash now is the time to buy just about anything! There are some travel deals out there that I haven't seen in ages. The folks at LondonTown.com have this really handy hotel searcher that is now in beta testing if you'd like to try it. Just plug in the dates, the general location you want and the price range and they will find you a place.
Or, if your rich Uncle Leroy has gone and left you a bundle of cash there is always this:
The Icon A5 personal jet.
As sexy as any sports car and as a portable as a jet ski this is the ultimate toy. Thanks to sweeping new FAA aviation rules and the design and engineering of Kirk Hawkins, this baby is the first to market in the new light sport aircraft category.
With folding wings for easy transport, the Icon A5 sells for $139.000.00 but, as they say, if you have to ask the price.... Don't go building that airstrip in the lower forty at your estate, however. This gem is strictly for water landing and takeoffs. So, I guess you'll have to get that new Caribbean haunt you've been eyeing to go along with it.
When the weather is cold, rainy, snowy, slushy, windy and generally bad nothing beats a well-prepared pot of soup. Meatballs boiled in a rich broth, pasta beads and fresh, chopped escarole. Always cook the pasta seperately then drain and rinse before adding to the broth.
We are really excited about our new series of interviews with chefs, restaurant owners and managers, and prominent foodies all over Boston. What we do is take the full flavor of a place and reduce it. So, you get the essence of what it's all about. Five questions, like five ingredients. We are calling it The Simple Interview.
Our very first interview is with Matthew Lishansky, Director of Operations at the wildly popular Upstairs On The Square. We reviewed this restaurant last year and are very pleased to kick off the series with a Harvard Square landmark. It's a gilded, classic place of fun, great food, and meeting friends.
Matthew Lishansky
What words would you use to describe the style of your restaurant?
UpStairs on the Square is a platform from which hospitality is liberally dispensed. We are a kitchen-centric operation that strives to provide guests with smart food and tailored service without the pretense of typical fine dining.
What uniquely qualifies you to prepare and direct the cuisine at your restaurant?
I’ve washed a lot of dishes. This is probably the most underestimated skill any restaurant worker can possess in my opinion. Until you have attempted every function in the restaurant, one cannot expect to have a comprehension of what it takes to make the trains run on time as it were. I started as a server in this restaurant, moved into management, and currently round out the management team as Director of Operations.
Do you like to cook at home and, if so, what do you make?
At this point in my life, I am fortunate enough to live alone. This consequently means that I do not cook at home solely because my definition of cooking involves breaking bread with others. When I do cook, however, I tend to venture into the Mediterranean preparations. I like simple food. My favorite breakfast is August tomatoes with olive oil and sea salt slightly roasted and served on top of freshly made bread.
How has your restaurant responded to the “new economy”?
For as much as I don’t like to sound like a motivational speaker, we have been making a concerted effort to maintain the power of positive realization- a sort of Field of Dreams mentality if you will. This restaurant has lasted through several recessions to its credit, and it is primarily due to the fact that we are so lucky to have made such wonderful friendships with our guests and purveyors. We are also fortunate to have an incredibly creative staff that enjoys planning and executing all of our outstanding events. From our dinner dance series with the Winiker orchestra to our monthly vegan dinners and plethora of wine events, there is always something to do here which diners welcome as an alternative to sitting around and watching stocks fall.
Tell us something that most people would be surprised to find out about you.
I used to be part of an improv comedy troupe that performed all around the East coast. Believe me, I skill use my skills on a regular basis. I also have very little actual experience in the restaurant world (I worked at an Italian restaurant in my hometown for about a month when I was a senior in high school). I used to work as a corporate recruiter for a technology firm and for L’Oreal Spain.
